I thought I would share a bit more about my planned trip to New Mexico later this year. Perhaps you will have some thoughts or additional ideas! Are you thinking about exploring New Mexico? Maybe this will give you a few new ideas. The post is long, but I didn’t see a good way to break it up.
First, I want to acknowledge that unplanned moments are often the most memorable. My trip plan welcomes spontaneous reinvention.
Here’s the map: I realize this is hard to read, sorry. The description that follows should help you find my stops along the way.
I’m really excited about this plan! I still have not decided whether I will take the trip by car or motorcycle. As you know, I plan to write about the trip in a travelogue called Chile Pepper High: A Travelogue of Enigmatic New Mexico, and I pulled these tentative descriptions from my book proposal. I’d love to hear your thoughts!

Consistent themes throughout the trip:
The search for the perfect red chile dish (and the best green chile cheeseburger in the world)!
A passion for finding local unknown/little known artists.
Appreciation of New Mexico‘s extraordinary geology, flora and fauna.
Getting to know local characters (many fascinating but unknown people and a few well known folks like Governor Bill Richardson or Tony Hillerman).
Learning to play the Native American Flute (including meeting local Native American flute players along the way).
Life‘s lessons while traveling alone.
Note: The Leg #s correspond to the numbers on the map.
Leg # 1 – Days 1-4 - Albuquerque to the Valley of the Fires
The Trip Begins in Albuquerque
I have my priorities straight and immediately seek out a good red chile dish! I will spend two or three days to explore Albuquerque and catch up with a few acquaintances. I am staying at the quirky bed and breakfast cottages of Casas de Suenos.
Socorro and the Very Large Array
Socorro, itself, is no big draw although there are some interesting art galleries in town (like the Fullingim-Isenhour & Leard Galleries, which I will blog about later this week). Socorro is home to New Mexico Tech, which is an undergraduate and graduate university specializing in science and engineering education and research. I plan to chat with a local geologist about the hot topics facing New Mexico. Fifty miles west of Socorro, I will visit the Very Large Array, one of the world's largest radio telescopes. This installation consists of 27 radio antennas, each of which is 82 feet in diameter. What are they hearing? I aim to find out! If time permits, I will head west a bit more and enjoy a slice of pie at Pie Town.
The Bosque del Apache and Valley of Fires
I am going to meet a ranger at the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge (Bosque del Apache is Spanish for "woods of the Apache," from the time when the Spanish saw Apaches regularly camped in the riverside forest). This special place is one of the most spectacular national wildlife refuges in North America. I will take lots of pictures. For lunch, I simply MUST stop at the Owl Bar, a small and dark bar that claims to have the world’s best green chile cheeseburgers (the best, I have ever had too). On the way to Roswell, I visit the Valley of Fires, one of New Mexico’s youngest lava flows.
Leg # 2 – Days 5-7 - UFOs, Cowboys, and White Sands
Roswell
Many believe that in 1947, a UFO crashed in the outskirts of the small town of Roswell. I visit the Alien Resistance Headquarters and get to the bottom of this story. My father has been telling me we are decedents of aliens all my life, so I will also search for signs of my family tree!
The Billy the Kid Scenic Byway and Mescalero Apache Reservation
I look forward to exploring the area that was home to Billy the Kid, the Mescalero Apache tribe, Kit Carson, the Buffalo Soldiers, and Smokey Bear. The drive will take me through the grassy plains and dense pine forests of the million-acre Lincoln National Forest. I‘ve read that views are stunning. I will stop in Lincoln, which has many adobe homes dating back the days of Billy the Kid, and visit the Mescalero Apache Reservation. Other stops include the Museum of the Horse and the Smokey Bear Museum.
Magical White Sands National Monument
I am REALLY looking forward to this. The glistening white sands are a sight to behold. Undulating dunes of white gypsum have engulfed 275 square miles of desert, and the White Sands National Monument is one of the world’s great natural wonders. Only a few plants grow rapidly enough to survive the moving dunes. Several animals, such as the Apache Pocket Mouse, have adapted a white coloration that camouflages them in the gypsum. Intend to relaxe here, taking time to absorb and reflect on the special beauty of the area.
Leg # 3 – Days 8-14 – The Best of Southwest New Mexico
The Chile Farmers at Hatch
Hatch is world famous for its green chiles. I plan on spending the entire day in tiny Hatch (1600 residents), talking to local farmers (perhaps picking some chile peppers!), learning why chiles from Hatch are special, and taking in the chile scene. I will load up with great stuff from the Hatch Chile Express, a wonderful shop that offers thousands of chile products. How much can her car/bike trunk hold? Is there a nearby UPS drop off point?
Silver City
Silver City, a place seemingly preoccupied with the moon, is a hotbed for local artists, and the intellectual center of southwestern New Mexico. I will peruse several art galleries and strike up conversations with local artists. After recalculating my art-buying budget, I will enjoy a day in this charming town.
Gila Retreat and Gila Cliff Dwellings
I will retreat in tiny Gila for several days at Casitas de Gila. These cozy adobe styles guesthouses are the perfect spot to relax, recharge, and enjoy the beauty of the surrounding Bear Creek and Gila Wilderness. During my stay, I will meet up with guide Joe Saenz, of Chihe'ne (Warm Springs Apache) ancestry, for a day hike. I will also spend a day exploring the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument, a 700-year old homestead of a small band of migrating Indians called the Mogollon. They built their cliff dwellings out of stone, mud mortar, and timber in cliffs 180 feet above the stream.
The Wild Spirit Wolf Sanctuary
Heading to the northwestern corner of New Mexico, I look forward to visiting the Wild Spirit Wolf Sanctuary, a nonprofit organization providing a safe haven to abused and abandoned captive-bred wolves and wolf-dog crosses. I hope to meet several of the 74 wolves and wolf-dogs currently being cared for at the sanctuary. They’re amazing animals!
Zuni Pueblo
With over 700 square miles and a population topping 10,000, the Zuni Pueblo is the largest pueblo in New Mexico. I will explore this traditional pueblo and appreciate the richness of their culture and arts. Eighty percent of the pueblo families create art, making this one of the world’s largest artist’s colonies.
Leg # 4 – Days 15-18 - Navajo Country and the Northwest
The Navajo Reservation and Shiprock
The Navajo Nation is the largest Native American group in the country, and many Navajos live on reservation lands in northwest New Mexico. The drive through the reservation is a visual odyssey of expanses articulated by magnificent land forms, the most famous being the sacred site of Shiprock. I am in search of local Navajo artists and intend to browse the area shops and trading posts that offer the Navajo blankets, rugs, and silver jewelry. For a special treat, I am staying at Kokopelli’s Cave Bed & Breakfast, a luxury cliff dwelling built into a 150-foot cliff.
Durango, Colorado
My adventure will take a slight detour into Durango, Colorado, a charming and historic town that oozes western flair. Many of the buildings built by Durango's pioneers are still in use today. I am excited to visit the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory and explore the area made famous by several Hollywood movies including Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, City Slickers, and How the West Was Won.
Bisti Badlands
I am going to check out the rarely visited and largely unknown Bisti Badlands (officially the Bisti Wilderness Area). The scenic expanse of undulating mounds and eroded sedimentary rocks covers 4,000 acres and may look and feel like another planet. Erosion has shaped this area into miles of unusual and beautiful topography.
Chaco Canyon
You can’t travel through northwest NM and not stop at the Chaco Culture National Historical Park, commonly called Chaco Canyon. Between 850-1250AD, Chaco Canyon was a hub of ceremony, trade, and administration and a major center of ancestral Puebloan culture. The Chacoan people combined architecture, astronomy, geometry, landscaping, and engineering to create this spectacular and special place.
Leg # 5 – Days 19-21 – The Beauty of Jemez
The Jemez Mountain Trail and the Jemez Hot Springs
I love the Jemez area - it’s one of my favorite places. The Jemez Mountain Trail winds through the Santa Fe National Forest and several pueblos, and is one of New Mexico's most spectacular scenic drives. I am going to take my time exploring natural surroundings dominated by volcanic edifices, such a Battleship Rock, a prominent landmark consisting of once glowing volcanic ash now frozen in place. I will indulge in the area‘s famous hot springs and talk with local Buddhist monks.
Leg # 6 – Days 22-25 - Taos and the Spectacular Rio Grande Gorge
Valle Grande and Bandelier National Monument.
Heading east from Jemez, I will keep my eyes open for the area pumice and obsidian fields that are signs of the area’s fiery past. I will also enjoy a guided tour of Valle Grande, an enormous volcanic caldera (covering 180 acres) and national nature preserve. I will explore the Bandelier National Monument, which encompasses 32,000 acres and 70 trails that provide access to hundreds of ruins of Anasazi cliff houses and pueblo-style dwellings.
Taos
Taos is community made up of a blend of what’s best about New Mexico. Native culture, Hispanic culture, art, and recreation come together in a way that makes Taos a fascinating place to discover. It will be fun to explore this wonderful town while staying in a 170 year-old adobe hacienda called the Adobe & Pines Inn Bed & Breakfast. I am going to take in some of the local music scene, including a performance by a local native flute player. I will also visit the Fechin Institute, the historic home of Russian artist Nicolai Fechin. In Taos, he renovated a large adobe home and embellished it with amazing art. Taos has character and has always inspired me!
Rio Grande Gorge
Regular blog readers know this is another one of my favorite spots in New Mexico. In general, this state overflows with spectacular scenery. Standing on the Rio Grande gorge bridge and viewing the steep chasm and river 650 feet below is breathtaking. This impressive bridge is one of America's highest. The walls of the gorge are striking and change colors as the sun moves across the sky. This is a perfect place to linger with a gourmet picnic lunch (although it can be quite windy). The wedding scene in the movie Natural Born Killers was filmed here.
Leg # 7 – Days 26-30 – Santa Fe Finale
Chimayo
Chimayo is famous for two reasons: Chimayo red chile and El Santuario de Chimayo. Red chiles lovers (present company included) swoon over red chiles grown in Chimayo. Like the green chiles in Hatch, Chimayo offers red chiles that are the result of perfect growing conditions. I can’t wait to visit local chile farms and stores and get my fill of red chile.
Roughly 300,000 faithful pilgrims visit the tiny mission church, El Santuario de Chimayo, known widely as the "Lourdes of America." Since the 1800s, worshipers have walked to the church in Chimayo to seeking healing, penance, or a miracle. It is a moving experience to tour this adobe church set in the piñon pine foothills of the Sangre de Christo Mountains.
Nambé Pueblo
Nambé means, “People of the round earth.” Established in the fourteenth century, today’s pueblo residents are mostly farmers. Several artist studios display and sell Nambé pottery and silver jewelry. I will take a guided tour to view the pueblo's buffalo herd and the beautiful Nambé Falls.
Santa Fe
Santa Fe is a city that embraces its natural environment and rich cultures. Most people think of Santa Fe when they think of New Mexico. I’ve been to Santa Fe several times and will look for the lesser known and wonderful features of the city. I can’t miss walking around the Santa Fe Flea Market, which is more of an arts market, and a great place to find local artists selling their works. I will stay in a charming casita in Santa Fe's historical district and plan to visit the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum.
The Turquoise Trail
I will take the scenic route south from Santa Fe to Albuquerque, better known as the Turquoise Trail. This is a gorgeous drive featuring natural geological formations and the beauty of the Cibola National Forest and Sandia Mountains. The small artsy town of Madrid and dusty western look of Cerrillos punctuate the trip with great places to stop, explore, refresh, and shop. I will also head up to the Sandia Crest. The breathtaking (literally, at an elevation of nearly 11,000 feet above sea level) view overlooks Albuquerque, the Rio Grande valley, and territory beyond. I’ve been to Sandia Crest many times but never grow tired of the experience.
The End of the Line
Back in Albuquerque, I will reflect on my trip. I am sure that the high points will be too numerous to count and the low points will have added to the texture of the experience. One more red chile dish and then I head back to the northwest.
Still lots of details to work out, but it sounds fun, eh?
Recent Comments